The beloved (or hated) fruitcake deserves to be part of your holiday traditions, say chefs from Polpetta, Luna Bakery & Cafe and Lucky’s Cafe. For every person who dismisses this holiday mainstay as a dated cliche relegated to the land of Jello molds and mini-marshmallow salads, there are those who adore fruitcake as a rich, complex indulgence that triggers all sorts of warm memories. “I do like fruitcake,” says Adam Bostwick, co-owner and executive chef of Polpetta. “If you have one made by someone who knows what they are doing, it can be really delicious.” So let’s give fruitcake its due. The recipe dates back as far as 2,000 years ago and has versions in cultures throughout the globe. A common ingredient? Dried fruits and nuts often soaked in alcohol for a very long time. Now who doesn’t love that? “Most of the good ones are started close to a year before they are actually served,” says Bostwick. While the process may be lengthy, a well-made fruitcake disappears quickly around the table. With its chewy interior filled with sweet and layered flavors, fruitcake has established itself as a holiday tradition for centuries past — and centuries to come.